Figure 51. The frame moved approximately 1/16 of an inch with every stroke of the jack once the straps tightened up. It was pulled 3/8 of an inch past the point where we wanted it to be, as the metal will spring back that distance once the pressure is taken off of it. When done, it was where it needed to be.
Figure 52. Now the frame is back into alignment. Is it perfect? No, but it certainly is close enough to get the bolts in, and the jeep will now track straight down the road. The drawback now is that a softball sized divot is in the inner passenger side rail. This is because of the stretch of the metal when it was originally bent the first time. This will be a weak point in the frame. It will be addressed by welding a 3/16 x 6inch reinforcement plate over it. We will also attach a M.O.R.E. FP300 Frame Reinforcing Plate to the opposite side, and tie them together with a third plate underneath the frame.
Figure 53. One last look at the beam set up before moving on with the build. This did cost a little due to buying the beam and the jacks, etc., but it is still a fraction of the cost of having it done on a frame machine at a body shop. The cost to have it professionally done was close to what it cost to buy a good used replacement, and doing it myself, saved all that money. One word of caution, there is a lot of pressure built up during a pull like this, and if something had snapped, someone could have very easily gotten hurt. The 6x6 beam was probably overkill, but it is still cheap insurance against someone getting hurt. Make sure if you do something like this that you have taken into account how many pounds of force you are gointg to be utilizing and adjust your equipment accordingly so it does not break.
Figure 54. The differential bumpstop that was welded to the frame had to be removed for the Novak motor mount to bolt up properly. A reciprocating saw was used to cut it off flush with the frame, then a large hammer knocked the remaining bottom plate off.
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