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My CJ7 5.3L LS Build Page 11

 
Figure 39
Figure 39

Figure 39. The stripped frame looking from the front to the rear. We have another small pile of parts that will be scrapped because they are not going to be reused, such as the factory skid plate, gas tank, driveshafts, and bumpstops.

Figure 40
Figure 40

Figure 40. The frame is on the car hauler to go to the sandblasting shop. It was taken to Keystone Stripping in Omaha. Much thanks to John's Towing in Council Bluffs, IA for transporting the chassis. It should be back soon and ready to clean and paint. At this point, we can say that the teardown phase is complete, and now it is time to start putting it all back together.

Figure 41
Figure 41

Figure 41. The new welder for the fabrication that will be needed. This is an Everlast Power I-Tig 201. Not the fanciest welder out there, but plenty sufficient for the needs of this project, and it is small and does not take up much space in the shop. The cart is from Harbor Freight. One of the reasons this particular welder was selected is that it has upslope and downslope, and pre and post flow. It is also 200 amp capable, which will weld anything we need on this project. It also has one other redeeming factor, it was less than half the cost of a comparable blue or red welder (and you all know who we mean by red and blue).

Figure 42
Figure 42

Figure 42. The paint for the chassis is here. You may be wondering why we are not going to powdercoat the frame. There is one reason: rust. If we damage the powdercoating and rust gets up underneath it, we cannot fix it without stripping the whole frame down again. With the paint system, we can fix any scuff areas that need it without tearing the frame down. From left to right here are the Eastwood products that were selected: Internal Frame Coating Black, Pre Paint prep, Rust Encapsulator Black, and Extreme Chassis Black Satin. The only thing missing from this photo is After Blast, it is on back order, and will hopefully be here before the frame comes back.